Italy’s Highlights

0:00 Hey, I'm Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe.

0:04 What's my favorite country?

0:06 Well, I've shot 18 episodes in Italy over the years,

0:09 and you're about to see why.

0:11 This is the best of Italy.

0:14 Thanks for joining us.

0:16 [Music] The more I know Italy, the more I love it.

0:50 It comes with a complete package.

0:52 Great art, all inspiring history, some of the tastiest food anywhere,

0:56 and of course, plenty of Dolce Vita.

0:59 Revisiting some of our favorite Italian stops,

1:02 we travel from top to bottom of this California-sized peninsula.

1:06 We start in Venice, then visit Florence, the best of the Italian Riviera,

1:12 my favorite hilltowns in Tuscanany and Umbria, Rome,

1:16 Naples with the Amalfi Coast, and Finnish in Sicily.

1:20 Hold on to your raviolis.

1:25 Our first stop, Venice.

1:27 One of Europe's best preserved historic cities,

1:29 a mighty maritime power in its day, and for centuries, a favorite of romantics.

1:37 Venice, more than any other European city, has a seductive charm.

1:41 There's no place like it.

1:43 For centuries, it was nicknamed Laerinisima, the most serene place.

1:50 Its main square, Patza San Marco,

1:52 with its grand dojes palace and basilica of St.

1:55 Mark, capped by its towering company,

1:58 was for centuries the most powerful couple of acres in all of Europe.

2:04 Like a grand boulevard,

2:05 its grand canal winds through a city lined with once mighty palazzos.

2:10 [Music] The Doj's Palace, the ruling center and residence of Venice's Dukes,

2:19 was built to show off the power and wealth

2:21 of the republic and to remind visitors that Venice was number one.

2:27 Its lacy exterior, a distinct blend of east and west,

2:31 is proudly Venetian Gothic.

2:36 Next door, the Basilica of St.

2:38 Mark was built in a distinctly eastern style.

2:41 Its domes and elaborate exterior remind us

2:44 of the trading powers close ties with the Greek, Byzantine, and Muslim worlds.

2:51 The interior glitters with its gold leaf mosaic work.

2:58 The remains of St.

2:59 Mark lie beneath the golden alterpiece.

3:02 A medieval masterpiece.

3:04 Its stunning golden wall of 250 painted enamels features prophets and saints.

3:10 And at its center, Jesus as the ruler of the cosmos.

3:16 The city is actually a car-free maze of about a 100 islands laced

3:21 together by several hundred bridges and a vast

3:23 web of alleys and canalside walkways.

3:28 With a shrinking population and in a state of elegant decay,

3:32 Venice survives on the artificial respirator of tourism.

3:37 Survey the city by cruising the Grand Canal on a boat called a vaporto.

3:42 These work like city buses, except that they never get a flat.

3:46 The stops are docks, and if you get off between stops, you'll drown.

3:53 Venice is romantico, a great place to fall in love.

3:56 enjoy a honeymoon or a special anniversary.

4:00 Visiting here, many feel that they're experiencing beauty, people,

4:04 and even life itself at a more intense level.

4:09 Savvy travelers leave the center and explore.

4:12 Walk and walk to the far reaches of the town.

4:16 Don't worry about getting lost.

4:18 Keep reminding yourself,

4:19 "I'm on an island and I can't get off." Worst case scenario,

4:23 you run out of island.

4:25 Take a moment to study your map and you get to enjoy a nice drink.

4:29 On this Blitz tour of Italy,

4:31 we'll be connecting all of our stops by handy train rides.

4:36 A couple hours south of Venice is Florence,

4:38 the epicenter of the Italian Renaissance.

4:41 That was the cultural explosion that 500 years ago helped

4:45 pull Europe out of the Middle Ages and into modern times.

4:50 Visitors gaze into the eyes of Michelangelo's David.

4:54 Enjoy Bacelli's birth of Venus.

4:57 Delve into the 3D wonders of Gaberti's glorious bronze gates.

5:02 And appreciate Fra Angelico's serene beauty.

5:06 And the cathedral features a beloved bell tower and a chance to climb

5:11 the dome that kicked off the Renaissance for a view you'll never forget.

5:16 [Music] Florence was long an economic powerhouse.

5:22 Rather than its church, it's the city hall,

5:25 once the palace of the Medici family, that towers over the main square.

5:30 Michelangelo's David originally stood here.

5:32 This is a copy.

5:34 The original David is now the centerpiece of the nearby Academia Gallery,

5:39 which feels like a temple to humanism.

5:42 At its altar stands one very impressive human.

5:47 The shepherd boy David sizes up the giant.

5:50 Thoughtful and self assured, he seems to be thinking,

5:53 "I can take this guy." This statue was

5:58 an apt symbol inspiring Florentines to tackle their Goliaths.

6:03 [Music] I'm meeting my Florentine friend Tomaso at Talini,

6:10 a venerable hole in the wall.

6:11 Much loved among locals for its tasty sandwiches and wine sold by the glass.

6:17 Gracias.

6:18 Thank you.

6:18 And when you're done, you leave it on the rack.

6:23 Boy, it's intense in the city.

6:24 Yes, it is.

6:25 Well, if you want to leave the tourist, let's cross the river.

6:27 Now, let's go to where the real Florentine's leaving work.

6:29 What's that?

6:30 The Ultrono area.

6:32 There's much more to this town than tourism,

6:34 as you'll quickly learn in the characteristic

6:36 back lanes of the Ultrano district.

6:39 Artisans busy at work offer an opportunity

6:42 to see traditional craftsmanship in action.

6:45 You're welcome to just drop into little shops,

6:48 but remember it's polite to greet the proprietor.

6:50 Your key phrase is poare.

6:53 Can I take a look here in this city of art?

6:59 There's no shortage of treasures in need of a little TLC.

7:04 The Ponttovecio or old bridge has been

7:07 busy with shoppers since before the Renaissance.

7:12 Jewelry is a Florentine specialty.

7:14 The bridge is lined with gold and silver shops,

7:17 a tradition that goes back centuries.

7:20 And for art lovers, you can't miss the finest

7:23 collection of Italian paintings anywhere, the Ufitzi Gallery.

7:28 The Offuit's collection, displayed on one comfortable floor,

7:31 takes you on a sweep through Italian art

7:33 history from the 12th through the 17th century.

7:37 In the Renaissance, as in the ancient world,

7:40 people saw the glory of God in the beauty,

7:42 order, and harmony of the human body, God's greatest creation.

7:47 Classical statues clearly inspired Sandro Batuchelli.

7:51 For me, his birth of Venus is the purest expression of Renaissance beauty.

7:56 The goddess of love, born from the foam of a wave, is just waking up.

8:02 Bacelli combines the beauty of nature and the human body.

8:06 The hands, wings, and robe mingle with the wind.

8:10 With Venus's flyaway hair, the airy spaciousness of the distant horizon,

8:15 and the flowers caught at the peak of their beauty tumbling in slow motion,

8:20 the world itself is fresh and newborn.

8:26 After all those urban thrills, I'm ready for a little break.

8:29 That's why we're heading for a delightful slice of the Italian Riviera.

8:34 The Chinqutter is five little towns beautifully isolated

8:38 in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera.

8:42 As if designed for good times, you can explore the region's rugged little ports.

8:47 Follow a wine train high into the vineyards.

8:49 Make pesto in its birthplace.

8:52 Dive from spectacular cliffs and hike,

8:57 soaking up more sun and scenery than you can imagine.

9:01 The Chinqiter, which means five lands,

9:04 was originally described in medieval times as the five castles.

9:08 Tiny communities like this, grew up

9:10 in the protective shadows of their stony castles.

9:13 Their people ready to run for refuge at the first hint of a Turkish pirate raid.

9:21 As the threat of pirates faded,

9:23 the communities grew with economies based on fish, olives, and grapes.

9:29 Today, the big employer is tourism.

9:32 Each rustic town is a variation on the same theme.

9:35 A well-wittleled pastel jumble of homes filling its ravine.

9:40 These days, the castles, which used to protect the towns from marauding pirates,

9:45 guard only glorious views.

9:48 This 10 kilometer stretch of coastline is

9:51 the rugged alternative to the glitzy Riviera resorts nearby.

9:56 The traffic-free charm is a happy result of its natural isolation.

10:01 Just sun, sea, sand, well pebbles and people.

10:06 For me, this is Italy at its most relaxed.

10:12 For a home base, choose among the five villages.

10:14 The most popular, Veratza, where the big news is the hourly arrival of the train

10:20 bringing an almost rhythmic surge of visitors into town.

10:24 There's one main street.

10:25 It runs from its train station down to the sea.

10:28 Of the five towns, Veratza has the closest thing to a natural harbor.

10:33 The old castle no longer says stay away.

10:36 Instead, it seems to welcome peoplepacked excursion boats.

10:40 Settle into a comfy spot on the breakwater.

10:44 Study the arrangement man and nature have

10:46 carved out here over the last 15 centuries.

10:50 Crumpled hills come with topographical lines, a terrace green bouquet of cactus,

10:56 grape vines, and olive trees blanketing the surrounding hills.

11:00 [Music] Today, the castle functions as a tourist lookout and a restaurant.

11:14 And the fort's lowest deck is perfect for a romantic meal.

11:19 For a sweet dessert wine, sip the local shakitra.

11:24 It's served with biscati, ideal for dunking.

11:29 Savor the view and the unforgettable setting.

11:33 Italy's chinquter is an irresistible mix of nature, culture, and human activity.

11:39 well-worn locals, sunburned travelers, and inviting familyfriendly piazas.

11:45 Sure, the place is now well discovered,

11:48 but I've never seen happier, more laid-back tourists.

11:52 While the Chinuare now endures the storms of the modern world,

11:56 the region's charms are as endearing as its people are resilient.

12:01 [Music] From Riviera beaches to central Italian hilltowns,

12:09 trains scenically connect the dots.

12:14 For many, the quintessence of Italy is

12:16 found in the regions of Tuscanyany and Umbria.

12:19 That's where feisty little towns were perched

12:21 on hills for safety in centuries past.

12:24 Today, each hilltown comes with reminders of a hard-fought history,

12:28 a rich culture, and enduring traditions.

12:33 And there are many hilltowns to choose from.

12:37 Sienna maintains much of its medieval character.

12:40 Its sprawling main square and towering city hall

12:43 recall the days when it rivaled even Florence.

12:47 Aisi with its walls, gates, and castle was home to St.

12:51 Francis.

12:52 Its massive basilica remains a favorite

12:55 destination for countless pilgrims today.

12:59 Voltera was an Atruscan capital centuries before Christ.

13:05 Within its ancient wall,

13:06 the town's rustic center offers an evocative Tuscan charm.

13:13 San Jimnyano with its prickly skyline stands

13:16 like a medieval mirage on its hilltop.

13:19 Of the original 60 or so towers, about a dozen survive.

13:23 Back before there was a strong central government,

13:26 rich people fortified their own homes with towers like these.

13:32 And the country of San Marino, all 24 square miles of it,

13:36 is unique in that it's still independent.

13:40 While novel today, tiny two-bit ducts like this were once the norm.

13:46 Medieval Italy, like most of Europe before the rise of modern nation states,

13:50 was a collection of independent little San Marino type citystates.

13:54 Many of them were just fortified towns on hills.

13:58 The good traveler can still discover magic hilltown moments.

14:04 Chvita Debario, perched on its pinnacle in a grand canyon,

14:08 is a classic, if tiny, Italian hilltown.

14:12 Entering the town, you're enveloped in history.

14:15 Passing under a 12th century arch, you enter another world.

14:21 Every lane tells a story.

14:23 Especially if you poke around and talk to people.

14:30 Come, Rick.

14:31 I want to show you my meal.

14:33 The olive mill Maritzio's grandfather once ran

14:36 is now the centerpiece of his restaurant.

14:38 and he's happy to tell me how grandpa made the olive

14:41 oil and how that olive oil helps make an unforgettable brusqueta.

14:46 A good extra virgin olive oil and you're ready for a big brusqueta.

14:50 A good brusqueta is simple.

14:52 Bread toasted over the coals, garlic, tomatoes, salt and oil.

15:04 Enjoying a rustic brusquetera is a fine way to cap

15:07 a visit to a rustic village like Chivvita Deerio.

15:11 [Music] Up next, we're heading from the charms of small

15:16 town Italy to the monumentality of the eternal city.

15:21 Rome, the historic and political capital of Italy, is a city of layers.

15:25 You'll find ancient Roman grandeur, Renaissance splendor,

15:28 Baroque razledazzle, Vatican mystique, and today's modern Italy.

15:33 so in love with life.

15:35 In its glory days, the word Rome meant not just the city,

15:39 but what Romans considered the entire civilized world.

15:44 There's history everywhere here in the city of the Caesars.

15:48 The coliseum reminds us of ancient pageantry and gladiators.

15:54 Monuments like Trajan's column boosted imperial egos.

15:59 Statues show how emperors were worshiped as gods on earth.

16:04 The Pantheon, Rome's temple to all the gods with my favorite skylight anywhere,

16:09 inspired future ages to great domes of their own.

16:14 And since ancient times, for 1700 years now,

16:18 pilgrims believing Jesus climbed these very stairs on the day he was condemned,

16:23 have scaled the Scalisanta on their knees.

16:28 While Rome's many churches are busy with people, they're also busy with art.

16:33 Pop into just about any church,

16:35 and every inch is slathered with Baroque style ornamentation.

16:39 Oh, wow.

16:40 Spiral columns framing scenes that almost come to life.

16:44 Cupid's doing flip-flops and ceilings opening up into the heavens.

16:50 [Music] Lodged in the heart of Rome,

16:56 Vatican City is the spiritual capital of over a billion Roman Catholics.

17:01 It's built on the memory and grave of the first pope, St.

17:05 Peter, and its centerpiece, St.

17:07 Peter's Basilica.

17:09 This most glorious church in Christendom is huge,

17:13 600 ft long, bathed in sunbeams.

17:17 It can accommodate thousands of worshippers.

17:20 The ornamental cherubs dwarf a large man.

17:24 As a tour guide, I've lost entire groups in here.

17:30 The adjacent Vatican Museum with its miles

17:33 of hallways sumptuously decorated with precious tapestries, dramatic fresco,

17:40 and ancient statues leads to the cyine

17:44 chapel with its beloved ceiling frescoed by Michelangelo.

17:49 [Music] Rome is a city of neighborhoods

18:04 and gathering places for people who call it home.

18:08 Like the Compo Defiari, literally the field of flowers,

18:12 this has long been a fragrant and vibrant market.

18:15 The market thrives in the morning.

18:18 What's seasonal during your visit will be favored

18:20 by local chefs and featured on their daily menus.

18:23 We're here in May and it's punterella, asparagus, and artichokes.

18:29 [Music] After dark, Rome takes on yet another personality.

18:46 and a short walk laces together its top night spots.

18:49 [Music] Back at Campo Diori, the artichokes and tomatoes are packed away

18:57 and the social street lamps are turned on.

19:03 These characteristic lanes, even late at night, feel safe and friendly.

19:07 The nearby Pata Navona is a carnival 365 nights a year.

19:13 While this oblong square got its shape from a longgone ancient stadium,

19:17 today the games are limited to browsing

19:20 and flirting around its famous Bernini fountain.

19:24 [Music] Just down the street is the flood llit Pantheon.

19:29 It looms high above our 21st century as if aching to tell its story.

19:34 2,000 years of Roman history.

19:37 And at the same time, it provides a venerable backdrop for alresco diners.

19:45 And the Trevy Fountain, a bubbly baroque avalanche dating from the 1700s,

19:50 seems purpose-built for today's Roman embrace of life.

19:55 With history, art, and people perpetually partying under the stars,

19:59 it's no wonder people come here in droves for the promise that a coin

20:03 tossed over the shoulder will assure their return to this eternal city.

20:08 That may sound silly, but every year I go through the ritual and it works.

20:19 I like to say if you're enjoying the urban intensity

20:22 of Italy as far south as Rome, go further south.

20:25 It just gets better.

20:26 Italy intensifies as you plunge deeper.

20:30 Naples, southern Italy's leading city,

20:33 is as intense an urban scene as anything you'll find in Western Europe.

20:37 Yet, it still somehow manages to breathe,

20:40 laugh, and sing with a captivating Italian accent.

20:47 You name it, it occurs right on the streets today, as it has for centuries.

20:52 Kids turn a wide spot in the sidewalk into a soccer field.

20:58 Walls are crusty with posters and death announcements.

21:03 [Music] Neighborly chitchat and heated arguments take place curbside.

21:13 Plastic buckets help grandma do business with the delivery boy.

21:18 [Music] It's a cauldron of community as everyone's out and about.

21:27 and fast food.

21:28 It comes in the form of a folded pizza.

21:33 [Music] Just south of Naples, along a breathtaking coastline,

21:42 you'll find trendy resort towns, ancient ruins, and enchanting getaways.

21:50 From Sarrento, wedged on a ledge under the mountains and over the sea,

21:54 you can take a cruise to the seductive

21:56 aisle of Capri with its romantic blue grotto.

22:05 Then drive the dramatic Amalfi Coast.

22:08 The drive south from Sarrento is one of the world's great road trips.

22:12 Cantalvered hotels and villas cling to vertical terrain

22:16 and beautiful sandy coes tease from far below.

22:23 As you hyperventilate, notice how the Mediterranean really twinkles.

22:30 [Music] For our finale, it's Sicily,

22:35 the island off the south end of the Italian peninsula.

22:38 It's famed for its ancient temples, its tasty food, and its bell chaos.

22:43 The beautiful chaos of Sicily.

22:46 Over the last 2500 years, the island of Sicily has been ruled by Greeks,

22:52 Romans, Arabs, Normans, then Spaniards before becoming part of Italy.

23:02 The island's complicated past makes it distinct from the rest of Italy.

23:07 It's got its own cuisine, a uniquely festive lifestyle,

23:13 and people who are Sicilian first and Italian second.

23:19 It all combines for a fullbodied and tasty travel experience.

23:27 The ancient city of Agraento is the most impressive ancient site in Sicily.

23:32 Its ridge lined with Greek temples.

23:34 It was a religious ensemble about a dozen temples

23:38 for a dozen gods each serving a different role.

23:42 Here at Agraento, you were fully covered.

23:45 And of all those temples, the temple of Concordia is the best preserved.

23:53 Chaffaloo, Sicily's most romantic port town.

23:59 With a golden crescent beach and sitting safely under its dramatic rock,

24:03 still capped by a fortress,

24:05 Chaffaloo cradles its past in a way that's easy to enjoy.

24:10 Since the town was founded,

24:11 its streets have lined up with the prevailing wind to catch the cooling breeze.

24:16 To this day, laundry flaps in that breeze.

24:23 And Polarmo is Sicily's main city and historic capital.

24:27 A busy port coralled by mountains.

24:31 A noisy and energetic metropolis, its architecture reflects the rule of its

24:36 many overlords as well as its rich heritage.

24:40 Walking the lively streets, you're surrounded by a scruffy elegance.

24:45 It's a city that invites exploration.

24:48 You feel Polmo's boisterous spirit in its markets.

24:52 [Music]

24:54 Wander among a commotion of stalls all competing for the buyer's attention.

24:59 [Music] It's an entertaining scene complete with singing salesmen.

25:10 [Music] Whether you understand the lyrics or not,

25:14 this slice of life market action is some of the best in Europe.

25:25 [Music] [Music] got children.

25:42 [Music] [Music] Whether you want Bella chaos in the market,

25:59 tranquility in the countryside, inspiration in the museums,

26:05 or just a romantic perch to ponder it all, Italy is popular for good reason.

26:19 Italy seems made to order for our travel dreams.

26:22 And in this greatest hits tour,

26:24 we've only scratched the surface of its cultural, artistic, and edible delights.

26:29 Thanks for joining us.

26:30 I'm Rick Steves.

26:31 Until next time, keep on traveling.

26:34 Ciao.

26:38 Hey, baby.

26:41 Dennis.

26:43 Yeah.

26:50 didn't understand a word he said.

26:54 Okay.

26:53 Got Superman coming here.

27:01 [Music]