Why China Banned Weird Architecture
PolyMatter
0:00 Gail Caddy was the owner of this tiny,
0:03 boutique hotel in the English countryside when she came across a strange photo.
0:09 It was a photo of her hotel.
0:12 It had the same white façade, the same arched doorway,
0:16 black placard, and name— “Rock Point Inn.” …Except it wasn’t her hotel.
0:23 Not quite.
0:24 The one in the photo was newly built; hers was 250 years old.
0:32 She soon discovered that her entire building— along
0:35 with the fish-and-chips restaurant next door— had been carefully reproduced,
0:40 brick-by-brick, on the other side of the planet.
0:44 Unbeknownst to her, there were now two Rock Point Inns: one in Lyme Regis,
0:50 England— population:
0:51 3,000— and one in the suburbs of Shanghai— population: thirty million.
0:58 And the more she learned, the weirder things became.
1:03 This, it turns out, was just one
1:06 corner of a $300 million British-themed neighborhood.
1:10 There were bronze statues of Winston Churchill and Princess Diana.
1:14 There was an exact replica of a Christian church in Bristol.
1:19 And there were red telephone booths imported from London.
1:23 Here, less than an hour outside China’s largest city,
1:28 police officers wore royal guard uniforms.
1:31 Even this was just the tip of the iceberg.
1:35 The British neighborhood was actually one
1:37 of nearly a dozen separate towns— each designed,
1:41 at great expense, to simulate the experience of living in a different country.
1:46 The German one, for example,
1:48 is home to Volkswagen’s Chinese headquarters and, believe it or not,
1:53 was built by the son of Hitler’s chief architect.
1:56 All across China, in fact, are hundreds of miniature— and sometimes,
2:01 not so miniature— Amsterdams, Paris’, Londons, and New Yorks.
2:07 You can visit Britain’s famous Tower Bridge—
2:10 complete with two extra towers— in Suzhou.
2:14 If suburban McMansions and palm trees are more your style,
2:18 there’s a mock “Orange County,” outside Beijing.
2:21 Hallstatt is a tiny, picturesque village in the mountains of Austria.
2:26 But you can visit an exact replica near Guangzhou.
2:29 The mayor of the real town even paid a visit in 2012.
2:35 Or perhaps you prefer to live in snowy Jackson Hole,
2:39 Wyoming without ever leaving Northern China.
2:42 The list goes on… There’s a fake Louvre, Chrysler Building,
2:46 White House, and Versailles— to name just a few.
2:50 China probably has more Eiffel Towers than anywhere else on earth.
2:55 This one looked a bit out of place at first,
2:59 but has since become more convincing.
3:02 Clearly, these can’t all be the work
3:05 of some rogue city planner or eccentric millionaire.
3:08 Something about the country’s political and economic
3:12 system unintentionally led to dozens of independent,
3:15 yet identical, Frances across China.
3:19 That “something” begins with the way cities earn revenue.
3:24 Local governments pay for most of their own teachers and doctors
3:27 and police and fire fighters— as they do in most of the world.
3:32 Unlike most countries, however, they aren’t allowed to collect much of their own
3:37 tax revenue— most of that ends up in Beijing.
3:41 This creates for each city an acute dilemma: how to pay for everything.
3:46 Luckily, they do have one powerful weapon at their disposal: land.
3:52 …All of which is owned by the government,
3:55 who can sell it to developers for 100% profit.
3:59 What this means is that, to stay in the black,
4:01 mayors have no choice but to choose quantity over quality.
4:06 Opening a giant factory generates a massive windfall
4:09 for the city when it sells the land.
4:12 But because it doesn’t generate much ongoing revenue,
4:15 it serves little purpose after it’s built.
4:18 Just to keep the lights on, the city has to keep building,
4:24 expanding outward at lightning speed.
4:26 Of course, this only works if someone is willing to buy all the land.
4:31 But that, until recently, hasn’t been much of a problem… Here,
4:36 China had three big things going for it:
4:40 One, the population was growing even faster than developers could keep up.
4:45 Between 1980 and 2000, 267,000 people were born in China each and every week.
4:52 That’s a new Buffalo, New York, or St.
4:57 Louis, Missouri every seven days.
4:59 At roughly one child per household, that’s a lot of new homes.
5:05 Two: hundreds of millions of families were moving from dilapidated
5:08 homes in the countryside to shiny new apartments in the city.
5:13 And three, even those who didn’t want to become homeowners really had no choice.
5:20 China’s Capitalist turn at the end
5:22 of the twenty century created lots of new wealth,
5:25 yet conspicuously few places to invest it.
5:29 Sure, you could simply park your money in the bank,
5:32 but the government artificially kept interest rates at or near zero.
5:37 You could take it to the stock market,
5:39 but you may not have much luck there either.
5:42 The Shanghai Stock Exchange has been more-or-less flat for the last decade.
5:48 Finally, strict capital controls limit how much
5:50 cash you can bring out of the country.
5:54 That leaves approximately one place for the world’s
5:56 largest middle class and the country
5:58 with one of the highest savings rates in the world to store its wealth: housing.
6:04 Until recently, Chinese real estate was a no-brainer.
6:08 You could stuff RMB under your mattress and watch it dwindle away or you
6:13 could stick it in the one certified
6:16 money printing machine— then undefeated for decades.
6:20 All of this is to say: homes have historically sold themselves in China!
6:26 But it’s one thing to sell apartments in the heart
6:30 of Shanghai or Shenzhen— China’s New York and San Francisco.
6:33 It’s quite another to sell them in its
6:37 equivalent of the Jersey suburbs or Inland Empire.
6:41 As cities were forced to sell land
6:43 further and further from their downtown cores, developers, in turn,
6:47 were forced to go to greater and greater lengths to attract buyers.
6:52 Yet China never experienced America’s urban flight.
6:56 Cities are still widely associated with wealth and glamor, not noise and crime.
7:03 Suburbs, therefore, are seen less as a welcome
7:08 escape and more as an unnatural exile.
7:11 That’s where the Eiffel Towers come in.
7:15 Real estate agents— famously skilled at turning 200
7:19 square-foot studios into "cozy urban sanctuaries”— likewise transformed “weird,
7:24 single-family homes in the middle-of-nowhere”
7:26 into the more aspirational promise of “living
7:30 the American Dream.” It’s actually quite clever… The buyers of these properties,
7:35 remember, are just looking for a safe place to store their wealth.
7:39 Since they aren’t actually going to move here anyway,
7:43 the practical realities of living
7:46 in a faux-7,000-year-old Austrian village are relatively unimportant.
7:51 And for developers, the European and American themes are the perfect short-cut:
7:57 they offer a ready-built architectural template,
8:00 create a spectacle that attracts attention,
8:04 and allow them to capitalize on the idealized image of an affluent “West.”
8:09 Decades of rising home prices conditioned
8:12 a whole generation to see easy, guaranteed returns.
8:16 Every empty field they’ve ever seen was eventually colonized by factories;
8:22 every housing complex soon sold out, so why would these be any different?
8:29 Something similar was happening in less
8:32 desirable third and fourth-tier cities across China.
8:36 Say you’re the mayor of Chenzhou.
8:39 Its population of 4.5 million would make it one
8:42 of the biggest metropolises in Europe or the Americas.
8:46 In China, it’s so overlooked that it’s hard to find video of.
8:52 There are at least 44 larger Chinese cities.
8:56 So, how do you put this relative backwater “on the map?” Well,
9:01 one way is to hand a famous architect a blank check and tell them to go wild.
9:08 Clearly, they understood these instructions.
9:11 China might just be the world’s capital of “weird” architecture.
9:16 There’s a building shaped like a bird in flight,
9:20 a pair of pants, a ring, three men,
9:24 eggs, a mountain range, the moon and the sun,
9:30 an octopus, a flower, spaceship, beehive, and forest.
9:36 You name it and China probably has it.
9:40 As a local bureaucrat,
9:42 your incentives were to drive short-term economic growth and quickly make
9:46 a name for yourself before being rotated to a new city.
9:50 Approving that splashy new project puts your name in the newspaper.
9:55 Besides, you’ll be long gone by the time
9:59 the Orangatang-shaped hospital sits empty and unused.
10:03 In other words, the more outlandish, the better.
10:07 One overzealous official spent one third of his city’s
10:10 entire revenue building a replica of the U.S.
10:13 Capitol to serve as a government office.
10:17 Meaning, Communist Party cadres work every day inside
10:20 an architectural tribute to their country’s greatest competitor.
10:25 How’s that for soft power?
10:27 Of course, when everyone tries to stand out, no one does.
10:32 Inevitably, this ignites a full-blown “weirdness” arms-race.
10:37 Now, to some, this is all just an amusing—
10:40 perhaps even endearing— feature of the Chinese landscape.
10:44 Sometimes you just stumble into a random Stonehenge.
10:48 Better than row after row of dreary Soviet-era high-rises!
10:55 Xi Jinping, however, is not among them.
10:59 After rising to power, Xi saw his mission as correcting for the excesses
11:04 of China’s long reform era— its rampant corruption,
11:09 its uncoordinated waste, and blind, “Western-obsessed” consumerism.
11:14 “Weird” architecture was a symptom of all three.
11:18 And so, in 2014, he “banned” it, in the vague,
11:22 jargon-heavy way Party officials do— by calling
11:26 on cities to “strengthen their cultural confidence”
11:30 and “disseminate contemporary Chinese values.” And just like
11:35 that, China’s “Las Vegas” era was officially over.
11:39 But there’s one place where China’s
11:42 early-2000s penchant for the opulent, the colossal,
11:45 and the garish truly lives on— a sort of living museum of that earlier era.
11:52 About 20 miles away from Hong Kong
11:56 is another “Special Administrative Region” called Macau.
11:59 Macau is one of the most
12:02 densely-populated and most land-deprived cities on earth.
12:05 So, naturally, about 15 years ago, Las Vegas Sands’ Sheldon Adelson—
12:11 then America’s third-richest person— decided it
12:14 would make the perfect place to plop down a brand new, car-centric casino strip.
12:20 The Venetian Macau is the largest casino in the world.
12:24 And, like its smaller Vegas counterpart, includes an indoor gondola ride.
12:30 Next door is The Parisian, complete— you guessed it— with an Eiffel Tower.
12:35 It’s one of the most surreal places I’ve ever
12:38 been— a fake Paris in a former Portuguese colony,
12:42 culturally, largely Chinese, but not quite, built by an American billionaire.
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