Exploring The Met's New "Costume Art" Exhibit
Bloomberg Podcasts
0:00 We love you.
0:02 Oh my gosh.
0:04 Beyonce.
0:05 Be Tiana.
0:06 Sam, is this Erte?
0:08 Is it Erte?
0:09 Friends.
0:16 Before the couture and the chaos It is, you know, always a very exciting moment.
0:21 It's a big celebration for creativity, for the arts, for fashion,
0:25 for New York City, and certainly also for the museum.
0:28 Met director Max Holine met us on a Wednesday
0:30 in a closed museum to show us what they've been working on.
0:34 What is the lead time to developing an exhibit like this?
0:37 Is it year by year, are you looking many years ahead?
0:39 So it took us eight years, to get this show together.
0:42 It wasn't that we were thinking about eight years how how do we do it,
0:45 but really to get all these important loans to one place,
0:48 that's really the challenge.
0:49 So the preparation for these shows usually take more or less,
0:54 I don't know, two years.
0:56 And importantly about this exhibition, it's only Met collection.
0:59 So So you don't have any loans.
1:01 This is all your income.
1:02 It's all from Met collection.
1:04 The Met actually is one of the biggest and most profound collections of fashion.
1:08 So we have 37,000 garments here.
1:11 Fashion is not only one of the really
1:14 complex ways of expressing human creativity.
1:17 It's also something that Bessie is so attuned to the current time,
1:23 but it is also something very difficult to collect.
1:26 It's very perishable.
1:27 Right?
1:28 It it's perishable.
1:29 It's it takes up a lot of space.
1:31 The Met Gala provides the the funds that are necessary to run a department,
1:36 to run a collection, really,
1:38 also ample service of preservation of fashion history for our communities.
1:43 Can we go take a look?
1:43 Please.
1:44 Come.
1:44 Like everywhere in Manhattan, real estate is at a premium.
1:47 The museum can't expand anymore into Central Park,
1:50 so it has to find creative ways to carve
1:52 out new gallery space within the preexisting footprint.
1:56 This was the retail store.
1:58 This was the gift shop.
1:59 Yeah.
2:00 This was the gift shop.
2:01 So now enter through the gift shop,
2:03 but we actually changed the gift shop into grand exhibition galleries.
2:07 Because you are the first one to see the new
2:10 galleries of the These are all objects from the Met's collection.
2:13 It's a show that's like a manifesto.
2:15 It's called costume art.
2:17 And what it tells you is the story of the importance of the dressed body,
2:22 of fashion in art, in art history.
2:24 So on the one hand, you see fantastic costumes, but on the other hand,
2:29 you also see how all the other artworks in our museum and how
2:34 on the other hand also other art influences fashion and vice versa.
2:38 But fashion can also be kind of political.
2:40 Right?
2:40 Of course.
2:41 It's always also a statement of expression of power.
2:43 Fashion is so fascinating because it's it's probably the art
2:46 form that's kind of responds so immediately to our current times.
2:50 I imagine it's unique in that you
2:51 have curators from different expertises working
2:53 together in a way that they probably wouldn't otherwise that you would have.
2:56 We have a 140 curators working here.
2:59 Everyone is very specialized in their area.
3:02 And so we need to create more opportunities for for them
3:06 and for different areas to be in dialogue, in conversation.
3:09 We want to have one inspire the other.
3:12 David, this is menswear.
3:13 Yes.
3:13 Could wear that on set.
3:15 Well, you should take inspiration of this.
3:17 Not only about what you want to look at, but, yes, what you should need to wear.
3:22 Right?
3:22 That's push him sartorially, and I'm gonna tell him it's art,
3:24 so we have to do it.
3:25 We need.
3:26 But the Costume Institute is only a small piece of the bigger picture.
3:30 After struggling to survive COVID and the resulting
3:32 hit to both patrons and patronage,
3:34 last year, the Met had its highest attendance since 2019.
3:39 And we have, 6,300,000 visitors a year.
3:42 We are currently undergoing a total kind of overhaul
3:46 of about a quarter of our entire system.
3:49 You're the director.
3:50 You're the CEO as well.
3:52 And I'm curious when it comes to benefactors,
3:54 is there more reluctance now because
3:56 of the broader cultural undertones that we have?
3:59 Or Even just the economy.
4:00 Yeah.
4:01 People less willing to to give or to engage?
4:03 So, we've seen quite the opposite.
4:05 I think you've see you see this museum being enormously supported,
4:09 of course, by philanthropy.
4:10 So I think that there are various ways that this museum serves,
4:14 its audiences, its communities, and I think broader purposes that we all care
4:18 about no matter where you are on the political spectrum.
4:21 That means investing 1,500,000,000 over the next decade,
4:24 building out new galleries and exhibits to be more inclusive across genres,
4:29 geography, and time.
4:31 It is very important to not have, so to see,
4:34 only Greek and Roman and European front and center,
4:38 but really apply the same care, apply the same grandeur,
4:41 and the same rigor to all the all the other areas.
4:46 Placing a bust from Northern Pakistan next to an old European
4:50 master and displaying a Congolese power figure not as an ethnographic artifact,
4:54 but as a significant work unto itself.
4:56 I think it's also important to see that we sometimes
4:59 walk through these galleries and think that this is like archaeology,
5:02 but a lot of this is is contemporary art.
5:05 Can you just speak to what you have in store
5:07 with the museum here over the next decade or so?
5:10 So we we reopened the European paintings galleries.
5:13 We reopened the Rockefeller Wing just last year.
5:18 We will open the new costume institute galleries in a couple of days.
5:22 Next year, we will reopen our ancient West Asia galleries
5:26 and then also our new wing for modern contemporary art.
5:29 That alone is a a massive project, construction of $600,000,000.
5:35 Is the new footprint of the museum are you trying to get people
5:37 to have those conversations in real time as they move through the museum?
5:40 That's exactly right.
5:41 So the the whole museum becomes, in that way, more fluid.
5:44 We really show how, in that sense,
5:47 African art is so connected to European art in that context, etcetera.
5:50 Who who are those who are coming to the Met Museum in the year 2026?
5:54 Our average age currently is 35.
5:56 We have people from the very young age to the end of their life,
6:01 but it basically shows you the diversity of our audience.
6:03 I mean, our local visitorship is enormously strong.
6:06 And then, of course, domestic and international tourism.
6:11 Last Monday's gala raised $42,000,000 to help
6:14 fund not just the costume institute,
6:16 but museum programming and activities for all
6:19 its visitors no matter what they wear.
6:22 Why was now a good time for a statement about the importance of fashion?
6:26 I think that fashion has been part of the Met's
6:29 history and the Met's institution for such a long time.
6:33 It responds very quickly to what's going on in the world,
6:36 but how contemporary culture feels these days.
6:38 So it's actually sometimes faster and more immediate than paintings,
6:42 sculpture, drawing, and I loved it.