Solo Camping in Morocco Didn't Go As Planned
Eva zu Beck
0:00 My expedition to the Sahara continues.
0:03 After a couple of days of settling
0:04 in and experiencing real Moroccan hospitality,
0:07 my mission for today is to find some solitude 'cause
0:10 that's kind of the reason why I've come out here.
0:12 This has gotta be the one.
0:15 We don't really have much of a choice.
0:18 But finding a good wild campsite away from everyone and everything
0:22 will prove to be a bit of a challenge today.
0:25 But for now, I'm making a quick pit stop to get some groceries done.
0:28 Okay, I've come to this little store here
0:31 in a little town in the mountains of Morocco.
0:35 I found some really cool stuff here that I haven't seen before.
0:38 This looks really good.
0:40 It's some kind of peanut paste.
0:43 It's called Coup..
0:44 nay...
0:44 dart (mumbles).
0:48 The usual suspects here.
0:50 Some canned tuna, chopped tomatoes, pasta,
0:56 muesli, and of course, delicious Moroccan couscous.
0:59 Here we go.
1:02 Dates yes.
1:04 You should never say no to Moroccan dates.
1:07 Mm, wow.
1:07 Some of the best dates I've ever had in my life seriously.
1:10 This is a pretty excellent, although tiny haul,
1:12 but I'm really, really happy with what I got.
1:15 Anyway, we've got a long way to go today, so let's get going.
1:20 I'm aiming to get to this really special, really picturesque canyon,
1:25 which is about two and a half hours south of here.
1:28 Hey buddy.
1:31 But two and a half hours on Google Maps in Morocco
1:34 probably realistically means more like three and a half hours of driving,
1:39 and we're already like 2:00 PM.
1:41 Alright buddy, shall we?
1:43 Let's go.
1:45 I always wonder what you guys watching these videos, think about solitude.
1:50 When you see someone actively seeking out solitude,
1:52 do you instinctually understand them or is it something that seems alien to you?
1:57 It's pretty amazing how quickly the landscape changes here.
2:00 Last night, I was camped up in these lush olive groves.
2:06 Everything around me was green and beautiful.
2:08 And now just a few hours later,
2:11 we're entering this really arid dry landscape with these, you know,
2:17 big hills with very little vegetation.
2:20 And then high up in the background, you've got snow capped peaks.
2:26 It's absolutely amazing.
2:31 I know where I'm planning to camp tonight and it's a pretty remote wild spot,
2:35 but I have no idea what the conditions are like right now.
2:38 I don't know if it's snowy up there.
2:40 You know, there's only one thing that I wish I
2:43 had with me that I don't, and that's a drone.
2:47 Sadly, drones are like pretty highly illegal in Morocco,
2:52 so I didn't bring mine, but this would've made for such great shots.
2:57 So sorry about that.
3:00 (pleasant music) I don't expect everyone
3:02 to understand this, but I love being alone.
3:05 And sadly, solitude gets such a bad rap.
3:08 When you wanna be alone too much,
3:10 you get labeled as a loner or a hermit or antisocial.
3:14 But for me, there's no sense of loss or missing out when I'm solo.
3:18 Instead, I just get this supercharged clarity where my brain
3:22 has a time and space to digest, to plan, to ideate.
3:26 And if that makes me a loner, so be it.
3:30 But my lonesome plans got interrupted today
3:32 as some locals rocked up just as I was
3:35 about to turn into my long awaited canyon and told me I can't go any further.
3:55 Those guys just let me know that the road ahead is closed because of snow.
3:59 And that's pretty bad news because I was
4:01 really hoping to spend the night up ahead.
4:05 I said to them that I'm just gonna try
4:07 and drive a little bit further and then come back.
4:11 So that's exactly what we're gonna try and do.
4:13 And let's see, maybe there's a spot where
4:16 I can park somewhere before the road ends.
4:20 I really don't wanna keep driving anymore today.
4:23 It's been a really long day and I'm just
4:25 ready to set up camp and make some food.
4:29 (pleasant music) Alas, my lonesome evening plans were about to slip away
4:40 from me along with the mud on the steep mountain track.
4:44 Yeah, I think the problem is not so much the snow, but just this really thick,
4:51 squishy mud that's really slippery and there's no guardrails on this road.
4:56 Just a sheer drop, 2-300 feet, and it only keeps getting higher and higher.
5:02 And I feel like that's the real danger here.
5:05 That's the real risk that you slip on the mud
5:09 because you lose traction and you fall to your death.
5:11 Well, I guess there's no choice but to turn around.
5:14 That is the only choice, and we're gonna keep going.
5:17 See if we can find a different spot.
5:19 (pleasant music) All I wanted was to finally find a quiet,
5:27 peaceful spot where I could process the journey so far,
5:30 how hard can it be to find a place like that?
5:32 Let's make it happen.
5:34 This has gotta be the one.
5:37 We don't really have much of a choice.
5:39 Sun's setting in less than an hour now.
5:43 And we still have 20 minutes until we get to our campsite.
5:47 I found this wild campsite on an OverLanding app
5:50 and really hoped the info was up to date.
5:53 Okay, we're home.
5:58 And home is looking pretty amazing, actually.
6:05 All right.
6:06 (pleasant music) Pretty cold and windy in here, but stunning.
6:16 Yes.
6:18 Yes.
6:19 (pleasant music) You know, I was gonna say that I was a little bit
6:31 disappointed about not being able to reach my original spot,
6:35 but this is pretty beautiful.
6:38 I'm happy to be here.
6:40 It's so peaceful and quiet.
6:41 There's no one around.
6:42 Home sweet home.
6:44 Wherever our wheels take us.
6:47 I feel like I owe Vilk a nice walk after such a long day of driving.
6:50 So come on buddy.
6:52 Let's go.
6:53 I'm gonna go down to that reservoir.
6:56 I dunno if you can see that blue patch of water over there, looks nice.
7:01 Come on buddy, let's go.
7:05 And then I'll come back and eat.
7:07 (pleasant music) Okay that reservoir is a lot further than I expected,
7:31 so we're just gonna wake up tomorrow morning and go for a run there.
7:35 And meanwhile, I am absolutely starving and I need food,
7:40 so I've gotta go get some food.
7:44 (pleasant music) This feels like a really good spot.
7:51 (pleasant music) I've done a bunch of these overlanding trips and I
7:58 have now learned because I realized along the way that like one
8:01 of the most annoying things for me that really made it super
8:06 uncomfortable for me to do this, like long term was the food situation.
8:11 Like I felt like I just didn't have enough access to good food,
8:15 and I'm not much of a cook.
8:16 So quickly, I kind of felt like I just wasn't getting enough nutrients.
8:22 Like I wasn't getting good enough food for the trips
8:25 that I was doing, and I have learned.
8:28 So this time around, I brought myself some of these cans.
8:33 It's like canned food.
8:35 That sounds terrible, but it's like restaurant made,
8:39 restaurant grade, canned food that's really tasty actually.
8:43 It's made out of fresh ingredients and there's like no junk in it.
8:47 So I've got a bunch of these hidden away, stashed away in the truck just in case
8:53 for days like this, when things go according to plan.
8:57 Let's make some of it.
8:59 (pleasant music) (food sizzling) We've got chili sin carne,
9:12 and I've added a couple of eggs in for extra protein.
9:19 Oh yeah, it's really good.
9:20 Bit of Moroccan bread.
9:23 Mmmm.
9:33 I'm so happy right now.
9:35 (gentle music) You happy buddy?
9:45 Are you happy?
9:46 Where are we huh?
9:47 (gentle music) (door thuds) I just love being
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11:45 Good morning everyone.
11:47 I just woke up here in a very nice and warm
11:51 truck 'cause I had the heating on the entire night.
11:54 It's actually quite cold outside.
11:56 And this morning Vilk and I are going for a run, so I'm very excited.
12:01 (gentle music) (door clicks) Hey you what is it?
12:11 (gentle music) Oh my God.
12:21 Wait, you guys.
12:23 Holy shit, there's ice.
12:25 Look at this.
12:27 That's crazy.
12:30 Obviously that means it must have been below freezing overnight.
12:35 No wonder I was so cold.
12:37 Glad I put on the heating in the end.
12:39 I know that we don't normally
12:40 associate the desert with like freezing temperatures,
12:44 but it's pretty common for it to get quite cold at night.
12:48 Even in these like very, very dry desert style, desert like environments.
12:52 In about an hour or so, it's gonna get really nice and warm here.
12:55 So can't wait for that.
12:56 That's why I'm here.
12:57 I'm not here for the ice.
12:59 I'm here for the sun.
13:00 (pleasant music) You wanna go for a run?
13:05 Let's go for a run.
13:08 (pleasant music) Every January,
13:12 I set myself a bunch of goals for the new year as we all do.
13:16 And this year I've decided I want to run
13:18 a nonstop 100 mile ultra marathon in the mountain.
13:21 And as it turns out, ambitious goals come with ambitious execution plans.
13:26 This is why on this expedition, you're gonna see me running around the desert
13:29 in every episode like an absolute goose.
13:32 (pleasant music) The reason why there's a random lake
13:41 here in what is otherwise a very dry place,
13:44 is that there is a dam nearby right over there, and if you can see it,
13:50 so it's because of the dam that the water is here.
13:53 Makes sense.
13:54 Come on buddy, let's go.
13:56 (pleasant music) Oh my God, I really needed that.
14:08 One hour of running done.
14:09 Let's do a quick strength workout and then have some coffee.
14:12 (pleasant music) Good food and a bit
14:15 of movement every single day and a solid routine.
14:18 Having spent well over a year living in my truck,
14:21 I know these are some of the most important things about long-term over landing.
14:26 In a lifestyle that is rooted in unpredictability, it's so easy to burn out,
14:31 so you need to carve out a space for regularity and routine.
14:37 Ah, I've just put on some fresh clothes.
14:41 Had a lovely run and a good workout.
14:45 Washed myself, washed my fringe, and I feel like I've been reborn.
14:49 Oh my God, I really needed this.
14:52 So I'm gonna start my day right.
14:54 This is local Moroccan olive oil that I bought here a couple of days ago.
15:06 (Eva tongue clicking) Little date.
15:10 Oh my god, it is so delicious.
15:14 They're so creamy.
15:17 (Eva groans) And do you remember that mysterious paste I bought yesterday?
15:23 Well, I got it here.
15:27 It is just peanut paste I guess.
15:32 Mmm, mmmm.
15:35 I later learned that in Morocco, this spread is called Amlou.
15:39 It's basically the local equivalent of peanut butter,
15:42 except it's normally made with almonds, argon oil, and honey, so good.
15:48 (gentle music) Well,
15:52 my first solo wild camp in Morocco turned out exceptionally well I'd say.
15:58 That coffee tasted just as amazing as you would imagine.
16:04 Just noticed that Vilk has a tiny little wound here
16:09 on his toe and there's a little bit of pus coming out.
16:14 It's nothing serious, but I just wanna make sure that it doesn't become serious.
16:18 So I'm gonna, hey, yes.
16:20 I'm just gonna clean it out.
16:25 Yes, I know.
16:26 I know you hate this, good boy.
16:27 And put some ointment on it so it doesn't get any worse.
16:32 There it is.
16:34 (gentle music) (Eva shushes) (tape squeaks) Yeah that's a good boy.
16:50 Vilk, you're such a good boy.
16:53 You're such a good boy.
16:54 Good patient.
16:55 Now you've got your breakfast.
16:57 Oh my gosh, your breakfast.
16:59 Yeah, your breakfast.
17:01 Here you go.
17:03 (pleasant music) Apparently in Morocco,
17:12 even if you think you're totally alone, you better look around twice.
17:16 These sheep and their shepherd along with them seem to come out of nowhere.
17:20 Vilk wasn't enthused about the new arrivals, but this is their turf.
17:24 And they came and they went.
17:28 (gentle music) In next week's video,
17:34 I finally reached this horror desert in Morocco
17:36 and embark on a solo three day off-road crossing.
17:40 Oh my god.
17:41 Of one of its more remote sections.
17:43 I really hope the challenge is going to be worth the reward.
17:47 (pleasant music) Wow.
17:55 (Eva laughs)