First 48h Living in my Truck in Africa, Solo
Eva zu Beck
0:00 In today's episode, I finally arrive in Morocco
0:02 after a five day journey across the Mediterranean Sea,
0:05 marred by unexpected fire emergencies and delays.
0:08 (speaking in foreign language) (Ewa speaks in foreign language) Of course,
0:12 my first 48 hours in Africa don't exactly go according to plan either.
0:17 I gotta admit it, I'm not feeling great.
0:19 But we're here, and I've just gotten off
0:22 the Mediterranean ferry and driven onto the African landmass.
0:26 Oh my god, we have finally left that damn ship!
0:29 I am on Moroccan soil.
0:32 And now, I suppose the next step is to go through passport control and customs.
0:39 I just really hope that everything goes smoothly,
0:41 because I have heard and read that Moroccan
0:44 customs can be very strict and very thorough.
0:48 I don't have anything illegal with me, so that's a start.
0:53 But I don't know.
0:55 This might take a few hours, you know?
0:57 Someone told me yesterday that last time they were here,
0:59 it took them five hours to get through customs,
1:01 which is (huffs) a long time, so, let's see how this goes.
1:05 (ethnic acoustic music) Okay, we are approaching the customs check right now.
1:13 (ethnic acoustic music) I was told to switch off my camera and turn into a bay.
1:25 (Vilk barks) Okay.
1:27 I was really getting ready for a grilling.
1:30 And then.
1:30 Okay, all done.
1:32 We got through customs, and I am frankly shocked.
1:37 Because I was really expecting a grilling.
1:38 I was expecting questions about drones, about Vilk, about my plans.
1:44 Nothing.
1:45 Not a single question.
1:46 They just waved me through, and that was it.
1:49 It took like 15 minutes.
1:51 (laughs) Oh my god, I'm so, I'm just so excited.
1:55 I'm exhausted and excited.
1:57 Let's go to the beach.
1:59 I think Vilk and I really need to go to the beach right now,
2:02 and just sit on the sand for a little bit.
2:04 (whoops) (squeals) We're in Africa!
2:09 We're in Africa!
2:10 Vilk, we're in Africa!
2:12 He's like, "I don't think I care." (laughs) Let's do this!
2:17 (bright acoustic music) After months of prep,
2:20 it feels so surreal to finally be on African soil.
2:25 Right now, it feels like I'm living some kind of daydream,
2:27 and maybe that's because I didn't sleep much last night,
2:30 but it's still a little surreal that this is the third
2:33 continent that Vilk has been to, and the fourth for Odyssey.
2:38 (bright acoustic music) This is ridiculously beautiful.
2:44 What the heck?
2:46 Where am I?
2:47 (laughs) (speaks French) Well,
2:55 I guess we got our first river crossing in Morocco.
2:57 And this is day one.
2:59 You know, it's kind of amazing how you arrive
3:02 here and you're just immediately thrown into the culture.
3:06 Right now, I'm just driving through
3:07 these beautiful mountain villages on the coastline,
3:12 and oh my gosh, it just feels like this is the real thing, you know?
3:16 There's not a tourist in sight,
3:17 not a hotel in sight, just local life, that's it.
3:22 So cool!
3:24 (laughs) My strategy for finding spots
3:26 to camp or rest isn't particularly refined.
3:30 Perhaps as a full-time traveler,
3:31 I should have come up with something more reliable.
3:34 But my go-to method is to simply scan the satellite map of a region
3:38 with my own eyes and fingertips until I find a place that seems cool.
3:43 That strategy will get me into an unexpected pickle tomorrow,
3:47 but we'll get to that.
3:50 There's Odyssey in Africa.
3:52 (squeals and laughs excitedly) And here we are in Africa.
3:57 Buddy!
3:58 (ethnic music) Free.
4:06 I'm just in awe, honestly.
4:10 (ethnic music) You know,
4:14 it's kind of crazy to think that it took so long to get here,
4:18 like, basically almost five days.
4:22 And that over there is Europe.
4:23 You can see Europe on the horizon.
4:25 I believe that's Gibraltar, Spain.
4:30 Oh, so close yet so far.
4:33 Lead the way, Vilk.
4:34 Lead the way.
4:35 (ethnic acoustic music) Yes!
4:42 (Vilk barks) Good boy.
4:45 (ethnic acoustic music) There's a little tent here.
4:51 What's inside, buddy?
4:55 Kinda interesting.
4:55 I wonder what this is used for.
4:57 It's literally just a little tent perched on the shore here on the rocks,
5:01 and inside there's a pillow, and another pillow, I think, of some sort.
5:08 And that's it.
5:09 And then if you go inside, this is the view.
5:19 So I wonder if this is like, a fisherman's tent?
5:22 Or like, an army tent, you know?
5:24 Like a kind of lookout.
5:26 I guess it could be either.
5:28 Nice.
5:29 You wanna stay here for the night?
5:32 That's a clear no.
5:34 Okay, we don't have to stay here for the night.
5:37 (ethnic acoustic music) Okay, that's it.
5:47 Ready to go.
5:49 Where do we go?
5:51 Where do we go next?
5:52 That's the big question.
5:54 I am really starting to feel the after effects of that long ferry ride.
5:58 Bye, beautiful beach!
6:00 Bye Europe!
6:01 (laughs excitedly) We're in Africa!
6:04 (squeals) In truth, all I wanna do is to rest somewhere on solid
6:09 ground with fresh air for a day before really embarking on my journey.
6:14 (uplifting acoustic music) Are you a good boy?
6:22 Are you a little good boy?
6:24 Yeah.
6:26 A couple of first impressions in my first few hours on the road here in Morocco.
6:30 So, number one, the roads are really nice.
6:33 Very modern, smooth, lovely roads.
6:37 I'm not gonna be spending too much time on asphalt during this trip, I hope,
6:41 (chuckles) but it's good to know that, you know, there's a plan B out there.
6:46 And then the other thing that I've noticed is that there's
6:50 a lot of police presence and army presence on the roads here.
6:55 It seems like almost every 15 to 20 minutes there is,
6:59 you know, a police officer with a little,
7:01 little speed gun just waiting to catch you and incriminate you,
7:05 (laughs) hoping that you're over the speed limit.
7:08 And yeah, they're everywhere.
7:10 So much.
7:11 So much.
7:13 I mean, I don't think I'm in any immediate
7:15 danger of being caught on a speed camera because,
7:18 frankly, Odyssey's top speed is embarrassing.
7:23 About a hundred kilometers an hour, 60 miles per hour.
7:25 That's the top speed.
7:27 I have not driven that fast in Morocco yet.
7:29 (laughs) (uplifting acoustic music) See a little coffee car here.
7:36 Cafe Mobile.
7:37 Mobile Cafe.
7:39 (Ewa speaks French) Nice.
7:55 Aw, look at that thick, thick goodness.
7:57 Oh my gosh.
8:02 Okay.
8:03 (speaks foreign language) Yes!
8:09 I have been needing this so badly all morning.
8:13 Good boy.
8:15 Oh.
8:18 So, about 70 cents for this beautiful espresso.
8:25 Oh my god!
8:26 (laughs) That's a solid, very caffeinated kick.
8:34 (gentle acoustic music) So there are three things that I need to get done today.
8:43 Number one, I need to find water and fill up all of my water containers,
8:48 because I have exactly zero water.
8:52 The second thing that I need to do is get some lunch, because I'm starving.
8:57 And the third thing is find some kind of campsite for the night.
9:02 That's the mission for today.
9:04 I found a spot near the famous blue city of Chefchaouen.
9:07 It's an organized campsite, and my plan is to stop there for a couple of hours,
9:12 get water, reset, reorganize,
9:14 and then set off again to find somewhere less organized to spend the night.
9:18 I'm just about to arrive at a local campsite here.
9:22 I'm not planning on staying here for the night, but they should have water.
9:26 So I'm really hoping that I can just
9:29 use the amenities without actually staying the night.
9:34 To be honest, I really dislike staying at campsites.
9:38 It's kind of like staying in an outdoor hostel.
9:41 Okay.
9:42 So 65, yeah?
9:43 [Man] Mhmm.
9:43 So you wanna stay night or you leaving?
9:46 I will probably leave in a couple of hours.
9:49 (acoustic ethnic music) Okay,
9:52 so I had to get an overnight stay in order to use the amenities here,
9:57 but it's not very expensive.
9:59 It cost me about five bucks.
10:01 So we're gonna fill up on water, park the car,
10:05 go for a walk, take a little break,
10:08 and then come back and continue on to my campsite for the night,
10:10 which is gonna be somewhere in the mountain.
10:13 The idea behind campsites is that you're in nature,
10:16 but in fact, you're surrounded by people and campers.
10:20 Not my idea of nature.
10:23 But in the end, you know what?
10:24 I'm grateful that they're there,
10:26 because they can definitely come in handy on days like this.
10:31 We have a little problem.
10:33 So I was originally just gonna park here for a couple of hours, you know?
10:38 Sit down for a moment, fill up my water,
10:40 eat something, and then go up into the hills.
10:43 But as it turns out, I just sat down and I almost fell asleep.
10:47 (laughs) I am just now realizing how exhausted I am.
10:53 I got like three hours of sleep last night on the ferry.
10:55 And so I'm thinking that maybe, maybe I should just stay here for the night.
11:01 Maybe I should just set up camp and take it easy today, you know?
11:04 Day one.
11:06 I don't need to rush anywhere.
11:08 And it would be nice to take a warm
11:11 shower at some point today or tomorrow morning.
11:15 (sighs) Yeah.
11:19 Change of plans.
11:20 Oh man, this is exciting.
11:22 I haven't done this in a while.
11:24 (laughs) It's been months!
11:27 (soft ambient music) Oh, yes.
11:31 (soft ambient music) Home sweet home.
11:45 (soft ambient music) (soft ambient music continues)
12:05 (soft ambient music continues) Okay, you guys.
12:12 So, I gotta admit it, I'm not feeling great.
12:16 I feel really, really woozy, quite weak, and my head is spinning.
12:21 So really not awesome, so I'm really happy that I'm staying here for the night,
12:26 not going anywhere else.
12:28 I'm just gonna walk into town to get some food
12:32 from a restaurant that's about 10 minutes away from here.
12:35 So it's quite close.
12:37 I'm not bringing Vilk,
12:38 because I'm certain that restaurants don't allow dogs inside in Morocco,
12:45 and I want to just be able to quickly get some food and come back here.
12:49 So, he'll be fine.
12:50 He's inside Odyssey.
12:52 He's taking a bit of a break as well.
12:55 Oh my god.
12:57 I am so excited about getting into bed tonight.
13:00 (soft ambient music) There is this pretty little
13:06 forest path that leads down to the city center, the Medina, as it's called here.
13:12 I thought I would see like, dogs and cats here, but look who I just met.
13:17 Hello!
13:18 (soft ambient music) Hi!
13:25 Did you guys see that dog that was guarding his little flock of goats?
13:31 Yeah, I'm really glad I didn't bring Vilk along,
13:33 because I feel like that would've created a lot of conflict.
13:36 Vilk is a pretty dominant dog,
13:38 and I'm sure that dog is also protective of his herd,
13:43 so I feel like that could have definitely escalated.
13:47 So it was a good call not to bring Vilk along for this little walk.
13:52 Oh wow.
13:53 Look at those buildings!
13:55 Oh, how beautiful!
13:56 (soft ethnic music) I'm sure you've seen this town on Instagram.
14:00 Chefchaouen has become a super popular
14:02 destination thanks to its striking blue architecture.
14:05 There's a ton of different theories as to why this city has been painted blue.
14:09 Some say it's to keep the buildings cool in the hot months.
14:12 Others say it's to keep mosquitoes away,
14:15 or to bring the town closer to God and the idea of heaven,
14:18 or to mirror the Mediterranean sea.
14:20 Maybe there's a grain of truth in each of these explanations.
14:23 (soft ethnic music) It's really hard to like, convey just how blue this blue is.
14:30 It's so blue that you feel like you're inside a paint bucket.
14:37 Or a painting.
14:38 So intense!
14:42 Okay.
14:43 Thank you.
14:44 (speaks foreign language) (soft ethnic music) Oh, Moroccan mint tea.
14:53 This is exactly what I need right now.
14:55 (soft ethnic music) Mm.
15:01 So good.
15:02 Bye!
15:03 (speaks foreign language) Got myself some tagine,
15:06 got some olives, got some bread, got some cheese.
15:11 I'm so excited to get back to the truck,
15:13 get back to Vilk, and just chill for the rest of the day.
15:16 As beautiful as the city is,
15:18 I am barely even able to hold up this conversation between you and I.
15:24 (laughs) Let alone, like, properly focus on exploring.
15:28 You know, when you're traveling, you'll get days like this as well.
15:31 Like, it's just part of the deal,
15:32 especially if you've had a really long journey to get here.
15:35 (soft acoustic music) Oh yeah,
15:39 I forgot that I have to go up the hill on the way back.
15:43 (soft acoustic music) Hey buddy!
15:53 Hi!
15:54 Finally back.
15:55 (sighs) Hey buddy!
15:58 Hi hi!
15:59 (chuckles) Hi hi!
16:01 Okay, here we've got our quick snack.
16:04 Got some olives, some goats cheese with herbs, and some cheeky prawns.
16:10 Oh, and of course, that delicious Moroccan bread.
16:12 (soft acoustic music) You want a little bit of cheese?
16:27 (laughs) Good boy.
16:30 I have no idea where the day went.
16:33 I came back with food,
16:35 had a little walk with Vilk, planned my route for tomorrow,
16:40 and all of a sudden it's 8:00 PM and I'm about to fall asleep.
16:47 The wolf is already there.
16:51 He's so exhausted.
16:52 Bless him.
16:54 And I'm about to climb up to my bedroom.
16:58 If you are new to this channel,
17:00 then you probably have no idea what I'm talking about, but I'll show you.
17:05 And if you know what I'm talking about, then welcome back to the channel.
17:09 You know, I should definitely do like, a full tour of this truck.
17:14 Oh!
17:15 At some point, and I will, for sure.
17:18 But for now, I'll just show you this.
17:23 This is my bed!
17:25 It's kinda like a separate little floor.
17:27 So Vilk sleeps here in his little nook,
17:31 and then I sleep up here, and it's amazing.
17:34 Check me out.
17:36 I got a sheepskin blanket on top of my duvet.
17:41 This is like, real luxury.
17:43 So I'm gonna switch the main light off, just leave the fairy lights on.
17:47 So I still need to do a bit of work.
17:50 I'm actually uploading the files for this series right now as we speak,
17:54 because we're editing it pretty much as we go.
17:58 So my editor and I are working together on making sure
18:02 that we can publish these episodes for you as soon as humanly possible.
18:08 I'm kind of struggling to believe that just this morning
18:12 I got off the ferry from Europe and arrived in Africa.
18:17 Today has felt like the longest day I've had in a very long time.
18:22 So much has happened.
18:24 I am drained and exhausted.
18:26 I just finished up a little bit of work,
18:30 and now I'm definitely ready to go to bed.
18:35 I think for tomorrow, I wanna make sure that I find a really good wild campsite,
18:41 somewhere really remote,
18:42 where I can't hear noise and traffic in the background, you know?
18:47 I really wanna start getting out there and being more self-sufficient.
18:54 So that's the plan for tomorrow.
18:57 But in the meantime, let's get some sleep.
19:00 (soft acoustic music) Ooh.
19:04 Goodnight, buddy.
19:06 Good night, you guys.
19:09 Good morning!
19:11 So I left the campsite and Chefchaouen a couple of hours ago,
19:14 and I have since gone into these beautiful green hills
19:20 of Morocco where there's a ton of olive oil refineries.
19:25 Like, look at this one.
19:26 See, look at that!
19:27 That's, those are all olives!
19:29 Those little mounds of little black things?
19:32 Olives everywhere.
19:33 So I kind of wanna see if I can stop
19:35 at one of these and grab myself some beautiful fresh olives.
19:37 Oh, here we go.
19:38 That place looks really good.
19:39 (soft acoustic music) (speaks French) (speaking French) I
20:05 didn't know that I would be getting an entire,
20:08 this is like a three liter bottle of olives.
20:11 This is the most olives I've ever bought in my entire life.
20:15 Probably put together.
20:16 (chuckles) Okay.
20:17 (speaks foreign language) Okay.
20:19 This?
20:19 Wow, okay.
20:21 (speaks foreign language) This cost me five bucks!
20:29 Look at the size of this.
20:31 (laughs) It's crazy.
20:33 What am I gonna do with all these olives?
20:35 Vilk!
20:37 What are we gonna do with all these olives?
20:39 (speaks French) (laughs) (speaks French) (soft acoustic music) Sheesh,
20:50 I didn't think I'd be getting a lifetime supply of olives.
20:54 (laughs) I just wanted like, a little bag,
20:57 but I don't think, I don't think he understood what I wanted.
21:00 Or maybe he just didn't sell them in little bags.
21:02 Maybe all he sold was these giant containers of olives.
21:06 Vilk, I think he wanted you in exchange.
21:09 Yeah, I think he said that he would take you in exchange for the olives.
21:12 You wanted to stay there in Morocco?
21:14 In the mountains?
21:15 Yeah?
21:16 Don't worry, I wouldn't give you away.
21:18 No, I wouldn't give you away.
21:21 (lively acoustic music) Honestly,
21:27 driving through these northern parts of Morocco
21:30 feels a little bit like driving through Tuscany,
21:32 'cause we've got these beautiful, green,
21:34 rolling hills, all the olive trees everywhere.
21:38 It's absolutely gorgeous.
21:40 (bright acoustic music) All right, this is looking better and better.
21:50 We've just reached the end of the asphalt road.
21:53 So now this is just a dirt track,
21:55 leading deeper and deeper into these fields and olive groves.
22:00 And I'm really hoping that the spot I found on Google Maps last night,
22:04 just by scrubbing through the satellite maps, that it's,
22:08 that it's a good spot, that it's quiet, and nobody lives there.
22:13 And that I can spend the night there.
22:16 I have no idea what it looks like.
22:18 The problem with my method of finding wild campsites,
22:21 ie, by looking through Google Maps, satellite maps,
22:26 is that sometimes it's pretty risky and you just have
22:30 no idea if the place that you found is any good.
22:34 It can be really hard to tell.
22:35 Sometimes you find real hidden gems, and sometimes it's just like, "Oh, oops.
22:40 Well, I better backtrack and find something else,
22:42 'cause this ain't gonna work." So I'm curious
22:45 to see which category this one belongs in.
22:46 (soft steelpan music) (Vilk yelps) It's telling me that this is my turn.
22:57 Oop!
22:58 That ain't gonna happen.
23:00 (speaks foreign language) (man speaks Arabic) Ah, okay.
23:15 Okay.
23:16 (man speaks Arabic) (Ewa responds) Alright.
23:23 I think this older gentleman has just invited me to camp over on his property.
23:28 Which is very sweet.
23:30 So that's what we're gonna do.
23:33 So it turned out that the spot I'd found on Google Maps was private property.
23:38 Just as I was about to turn and look for something else,
23:40 an elderly man approached me and explained that I
23:43 could come on his land if I wanted to.
23:46 So I said, great!
23:47 Muhammad offered me some oranges and took Vilk
23:51 and I for a big walk around his olive grove.
23:54 Gosh, this is so beautiful.
23:58 Look at this amazing landscape.
24:00 This is Morocco!
24:02 (speaks foreign language) What a place.
24:11 (both speak foreign language) (both laugh) He's very cheeky.
24:17 (laughs) And then, eventually,
24:20 he led me up over the hill where we ended up in his family's house.
24:24 Stay!
24:25 (men chatter) (Ewa laughs) We had no idea what to do with Vilk.
24:31 They said it's okay for me to go inside the house with him,
24:34 but I know that it's a little bit culturally inappropriate,
24:36 so I thought I'll just tie him up there for a minute.
24:41 Oh, okay.
24:43 (Ewa speaks foreign language) So these guys
24:47 have literally just brought out a feast.
24:50 Oh my god!
24:51 Wow!
24:53 (speaks foreign language) That's incredible.
24:56 (Ewa speaks foreign language) (man speaks foreign
25:05 language) I have no idea what we're eating, but this is delicious.
25:10 (speaking foreign language) Well, Germany, Poland, Ukraine, Russia.
25:29 But I'll let it slide this time.
25:32 (soft acoustic music) (Ewa laughs) Real Moroccan tea.
25:39 (speaks foreign language) So delicious.
25:46 (speaks foreign language) So we're just on our way
25:54 back from Muhammad's family's place to the truck.
25:59 I honestly never dreamt that today would pan out like, like it did.
26:04 I never expected this in a million years.
26:07 I thought I would just be alone somewhere in the mountains,
26:10 but this is why I travel solo, is because things like this happen.
26:16 And honestly, my heart feels so full.
26:19 I'm so happy that I got to meet Muhammad's family.
26:23 (laughs) What a trip.
26:27 (speaks foreign language) What a life.
26:35 (soft acoustic music) Okay, I'm finally back in the truck,
26:45 and I'm ready to go to bed.
26:46 It's already dark outside.
26:47 It's not very late, but I am exhausted.
26:50 It's been a mad day.
26:53 And everything is great, except I don't wanna ask Muhammad to use his bathroom.
27:00 Besides, I'm not sure if he has one, and probably not.
27:03 And I don't wanna pee out in the public on his field.
27:07 So that's where a pee bottle comes in really handy.
27:09 So, gimme a couple minutes.
27:11 I'll be right back.
27:12 I am beyond excited about everything that's happened so far.
27:16 It's been so wild.
27:18 The first 48 hours, less than 48 hours in Africa, in Morocco,
27:25 have been such a whirlwind that I feel
27:27 like I've been here for two months already.
27:29 I'm like, how did all this happen in such a short space of time?
27:35 And yeah.
27:37 God.
27:38 What a gift it is to be solo traveling and meeting all these amazing people,
27:43 being able to stop by the side of a road
27:46 for a coffee or to get three kilograms of olives.
27:51 (laughs) It has been so much fun so far,
27:54 and I just know that this expedition is going to be wild.
27:59 And in the next episode,
28:01 I continue to struggle to find my perfect wild campsite.
28:05 I find snow in the desert, nearly get myself into car trouble,
28:09 and start my deep dive into solitude.
28:12 (soft ethnic flute music)