Chicken chasseur (with WHAT juice??)
Adam Ragusea
0:00 I think I've cooked it on the internet before,
0:02 but I've just been making chicken chasseur a whole lot at home lately.
0:06 French style hunter's chicken.
0:08 And I just think it's an almost ideal fancy home cooked meal.
0:12 Here's how I am making it lately.
0:14 I've got a secret ingredient that might offend the frogs.
0:17 Don't tell them.
0:18 Traditionally, you use skin on chicken pieces.
0:21 Buy them already cut up if you can,
0:24 but I'm just going to cut up this 4 lb 2 kg chicken myself.
0:28 My way is neither quick nor elegant, but it's easy.
0:31 Cut that skin between the leg quarter and the body,
0:33 and then I dangle the chicken by the drumstick.
0:36 The tension opens up the hip joint and makes it easy to slice right through.
0:41 Once it's off, I'll separate the drum from the thigh,
0:44 slice behind the knee there, and then I just pick it up and crack it open.
0:48 Dislocate the joint so you can slice the rest of the way through.
0:51 You could cook the thighs whole, but I'm going to debone them.
0:55 Just go down the length of the femur and open everything up.
0:58 Get under the bone with your knife, and then it doesn't have to be pretty.
1:01 Just get the bone out of there.
1:03 To make the breasts easier,
1:05 I'll make a couple slits on each side of the wishbone,
1:07 reach in there, dig around, and just lever the whole thing out like that.
1:11 Start at the apex and peel the meat off a little at a time,
1:15 following the rib cage with your knife.
1:17 When I get down to the shoulder joint,
1:19 I just crack it open so I can get through with my knife, and there.
1:22 That's a breast with wing.
1:24 Save the carcass.
1:25 I'll need a heavier knife for this part.
1:27 Just to fancy up the legs,
1:29 I'll go straight down to the bone just below the meaty part.
1:32 Circumnavigate that whole tibia there, and then scrape down to the ankle,
1:36 which I will finally remove by just popping through the bone.
1:40 A little smack on the spine of the knife gets you through.
1:43 Those will cook up real pretty.
1:45 With the wings, I want to remove everything below the humerus,
1:48 so I dislocate the elbow and cut through.
1:51 A boneless, skinless breast with the drumette
1:53 attached makes a very pretty presentation.
1:55 They call it an airline breast.
1:58 There's the meats, but you could cut it
1:59 up much more crudely or buy pre-cut pieces.
2:03 All these scraps I will freeze to make stock
2:05 later because I am now one of those people.
2:08 Enough pepper and salt to season both sides.
2:10 I'm leaving extra on the board for the other side.
2:13 And this is a good amount of flour,
2:15 enough to coat the chicken and thicken the sauce.
2:17 Toss to coat everything.
2:19 There we go.
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4:19 Anyway, a good coating of olive oil in my widest
4:21 pan or render some bacon in there if you want.
4:24 I'll lay the chicken skin side down.
4:26 My heat is very high because there's a lot
4:29 of mass in here cooling it back down again.
4:31 Real quick, I can slice up some mushrooms.
4:34 Yes, the board is still dirty, but all of the stuff is going to get cooked
4:37 and I want this extra couple tablespoons of flour for thickening.
4:41 A couple of carrots sliced into thin rounds and then
4:43 I'll do a real quick chop on a shallot.
4:45 That's it.
4:46 Is the chicken ready to flip?
4:48 It releases real easy from the bottom of the pan, so probably.
4:52 Man, that is a beautiful color from that flour.
4:54 Plus, that flour will help the chicken kind of merge with the sauce later.
4:58 Brown the other side.
5:00 Don't worry about cooking the meat all the way through yet.
5:03 Just stop before the stuff at the bottom of the pan
5:05 starts to burn because that would ruin the sauce.
5:07 Take the chicken out to a plate or something and then I'm
5:10 just going to put all these veggies in at once with the flour.
5:13 It's amazing how well they all cook together if you
5:16 give it some extra olive oil or butter or something.
5:19 The mushrooms and the flour will suck up a lot.
5:22 Just get a little color.
5:23 Look for the mushrooms to shrink by about half
5:25 and that's all the head start this stuff needs.
5:28 Time to deglaze and lately I'm using dry vermouth for this.
5:31 You could use normal white wine,
5:33 but the fortified wine just has a lot more taste to it
5:36 and I think this dish can sometimes be a little bland.
5:39 It just needs an extra boost that the vermouth provides.
5:42 Even the dry stuff is still pretty sweet tasting,
5:44 which brings a lot to the dish.
5:46 That's like a whole glass of vermouth.
5:48 Once the bottom of the pan is clean, I'll throw the chicken back in and the rest
5:52 of the liquid is going to be my secret ingredient, V8 juice or equivalent.
5:57 Tomato juice with other vegetable flavors in it.
6:00 This stuff makes a fantastic sauce base and I
6:02 don't care if anyone thinks it's a cheat.
6:05 Bring it like 2/3 of the way up the chicken.
6:07 You could use a can of pureed tomatoes or something,
6:10 but tomato juice has had the fiber strained out and I
6:13 love the smooth glossy finish that gives you in the final sauce.
6:17 Plus, the flavor of the V8 is a lot more complex.
6:20 I'm going to throw in a few ice cubes of my homemade demi-glace.
6:24 If I didn't have that, I would use
6:25 a concentrated stock product like twice this much,
6:28 but just be aware it's very salty,
6:31 so you probably won't need any more salt in the sauce.
6:33 Get that simmering and you could cook it
6:35 until the chicken is like just done inside,
6:38 maybe a half hour, or you could keep going and really soften it.
6:42 I like it just a little soft these days.
6:45 I don't want it falling apart.
6:47 Flip the chicken a few times or cover it
6:49 with a lid to make sure that the top side gets cooked.
6:52 Boil some egg noodles toward the end.
6:54 I think I simmered this chicken a little over an hour.
6:57 When I poke the dark meat with my finger,
6:59 I can just start to feel the different muscles pulling apart from each other.
7:03 That's the right softness for me.
7:06 We'll still need a fork and knife, but not very much.
7:09 I'll taste the sauce.
7:10 Very intense because I did not use any water
7:13 and I let it reduce the whole time with no lid.
7:16 Needs a whole bunch more pepper, a little salt, some butter to finish the sauce.
7:20 This makes it Frenchy.
7:22 Tear in some parsley leaves or something, maybe a few sage leaves.
7:26 Thyme would be great, but the big herb for me is tarragon,
7:29 which tastes like floral licorice.
7:31 I really associate tarragon with French bistro cooking,
7:34 probably because I almost never see it anywhere else.
7:37 I'll just shake that in, get
7:38 that butter melting gently to preserve its emulsion, and right at the end,
7:43 if you have a lemon around,
7:44 a little squeeze of juice really freshens and brightens the whole dish.
7:48 That is a classic restaurant trick for a reason.
7:51 Works great even in things that you think wouldn't taste well with lemon.
7:54 Noodles on the side.
7:56 Here's a boneless thigh, and then check how nice that lollipop leg looks.
8:00 Spoon a little sauce, and then that is a knockout of a dish that is
8:04 just as good at home as it would be at the bistro.
8:07 Sauce is super rich and complex, not bland at all,
8:10 which is particularly important for the white meat,
8:12 which doesn't taste like much.
8:14 I do like the meaty texture you get from it,
8:16 though, if you just barely start to soften it through braising.
8:20 But, my favorite part is probably the lolly leg.